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There is nothing outdated about a library. On the contrary, everything we need in our modern world-- all that is civilized, waits for us inside: books, quiet, knowledge, respect, and discovery.  The  oldest public library in France is the Bibliothèque Mazarine in Paris. To describe it as extraordinary is an understatement.  
Each time I have crossed the simple bridge,  the Passerelle des Arts, to get to the Left Bank, I see the imposing Institut de France building returning my stare. For some 30 years,  I passed it by until this time when I read that it houses the Mazarine Library. This library was Cardinal Mazarin's private library dating back to 1661. At that time, his collection of books was an impressive 30,000 volumes. Ttoday there are 600,000 volumes including some very rare books and manuscripts.  
The reading room pictured here was restored from 1968-1974 in the style of a 17th century library. The beautiful parquet floors are still in tact and squeak underfoot just as they should at their age! When I walked through, there were many people researching at the tables and except for the laptops, I could easily imagine an 18th century public here instead. The many busts-- ancient and modern (90 in total) that line the room and grace the staircases are alone something to see.

When I was a young girl, my library card was one of my most precious possessions.  I looked forward to the summertime and the prospect of all the free reading I could do. My mother took me diligently to the public library each week to check out or return my books. It was a bit of heaven there for me in the company of all the books-- each a potential adventure, a chance to learn and a moment to dream.  To step into a library such as the Mazarine, was something I could never have imagined existed as a young girl -- even now, I am in awe.  I plan to get what is called a readers card so that I can use the library regularly. I'm not doing any specific research at the moment, and I don't even know what book will be the first I open there, but I know that my card will be one of my greatest possessions!
Books have been called a kind of portable magic;  worlds in and of themselves, and passports to travel. As Jorge Luis Borges said: "I have always imagined that Paradise will be a kind of library".  On your next trip to Paris, cross the Passerelle des Arts, enter this library paradise and then, for lunch, head next door to Restaurant Guy Savoy and succumb to his magic!

Passerelle des Arts:

Also known as Pont des Arts was the first metal bridge built in Paris around 1802 under the reign of Napoleon I. It crosses the Seine and connects the Palais de Louvre and the Institut de France. Many painters use it as a studio in plein air  and in warm weather, it becomes the perfect impromptu picnic spot.

Bibliothèque Mazarine:

23 Quai de Conti 
Open Monday-Friday from 10:00AM-6:00PM
Free ( Must have a photo I.D.)
http://www.bibliotheque-mazarine.fr/en/

Restaurant Guy Savoy:

For a fabulous lunch, reserve a table at the new Restaurant Guy Savoy located next door in the Monnaie de Paris.
11 Quai de Conti
01 43 80 4061
Lunch and Dinner Monday-Friday

 

xx Carla

 

There is nothing outdated about a library. On the contrary, everything we need in our modern world-- all that is civilized, waits for us inside: books, quiet, knowledge, respect, and discovery.  The  oldest public library in France is the Bibliothèque Mazarine in Paris. To describe it as extraordinary is an understatement.  
Each time I have crossed the simple bridge,  the Passerelle des Arts, to get to the Left Bank, I see the imposing Institut de France building returning my stare. For some 30 years,  I passed it by until this time when I read that it houses the Mazarine Library. This library was Cardinal Mazarin's private library dating back to 1661. At that time, his collection of books was an impressive 30,000 volumes. Ttoday there are 600,000 volumes including some very rare books and manuscripts.  
The reading room pictured here was restored from 1968-1974 in the style of a 17th century library. The beautiful parquet floors are still in tact and squeak underfoot just as they should at their age! When I walked through, there were many people researching at the tables and except for the laptops, I could easily imagine an 18th century public here instead. The many busts-- ancient and modern (90 in total) that line the room and grace the staircases are alone something to see.

When I was a young girl, my library card was one of my most precious possessions.  I looked forward to the summertime and the prospect of all the free reading I could do. My mother took me diligently to the public library each week to check out or return my books. It was a bit of heaven there for me in the company of all the books-- each a potential adventure, a chance to learn and a moment to dream.  To step into a library such as the Mazarine, was something I could never have imagined existed as a young girl -- even now, I am in awe.  I plan to get what is called a readers card so that I can use the library regularly. I'm not doing any specific research at the moment, and I don't even know what book will be the first I open there, but I know that my card will be one of my greatest possessions!
Books have been called a kind of portable magic;  worlds in and of themselves, and passports to travel. As Jorge Luis Borges said: "I have always imagined that Paradise will be a kind of library".  On your next trip to Paris, cross the Passerelle des Arts, enter this library paradise and then, for lunch, head next door to Restaurant Guy Savoy and succumb to his magic!

Passerelle des Arts:

Also known as Pont des Arts was the first metal bridge built in Paris around 1802 under the reign of Napoleon I. It crosses the Seine and connects the Palais de Louvre and the Institut de France. Many painters use it as a studio in plein air  and in warm weather, it becomes the perfect impromptu picnic spot.

Bibliothèque Mazarine:

23 Quai de Conti 
Open Monday-Friday from 10:00AM-6:00PM
Free ( Must have a photo I.D.)
http://www.bibliotheque-mazarine.fr/en/

Restaurant Guy Savoy:

For a fabulous lunch, reserve a table at the new Restaurant Guy Savoy located next door in the Monnaie de Paris.
11 Quai de Conti
01 43 80 4061
Lunch and Dinner Monday-Friday

 

xx Carla

 

You might not think of going to a puppet show when you are in Paris, but if you find yourself strolling in the Luxembourg Gardens (and you should!), consider attending one of the famous Guignol shows in the charming  theatre.  

When our daughter Camille was little, we took her to the garden to sail boats in the small lake there and to attend these puppet shows. When the theatre bell rings in the park, all the children (with their parents not far behind) come running to get a seat on the little wood benches in front of the stage. The parents get seated along the wall or in the back rows.  There is so much excitement in the air all of which gets boosted during intermission by the old-fashioned bon-bon sales ladies with their big trays of candies strapped in front of them.  The candy is wrapped so beautifully that it is impossible to resist!  Watching the children pay with their own carefully saved coins and then seeing their faces light up with delight when receiving their bon bons is part of the show! The whole experience is truly precious and I still make time to see Les Guignols once a year.  While there, I close my eyes and can still hear Camille's laughter and feel her delight.  

While visiting the Luxembourg Gardens, don't miss the beauty of the Medici Fountain or the opportunity to sit in one of the semi-reclined French garden chairs and take in some sun and people watching. There is an Angelina cafe at one end of the garden -- known for their famous hot chocolate and, just recently opened, La Table du Luxembourg-- a gastronomique restaurant in the upper garden by Michelin star Chef Philippe Renard (Lutétia).

Les Guignols puppet shows:

Sundays: 11:00AM and 3:30PM
Wednesday: 3:30PM
Thursday: 10:30AM and 3:30PM
Friday: 10:30AM and 3:30 PM
Saturday: 11:00AM and 3:30PM
Arrive 30 minutes early for a good seat. The show lasts 40 minutes.

Angelina in the Luxembourg:

19 rue de Vaugirard 
Open every day 10-6

La Table du Luxembourg: 

Jardin du Luxembourg
7 rue Guynemer, porte Fleurus
01 42 38 64 88 for reservations

 

xx Carla

My love of string instruments began in 4th grade.  I had the opportunity to take violin lessons at school with Mr. Kantack and persuaded my parents to buy me a used violin. I was so excited! I sat in my chair with my music stand in front of me-- sheet music staring me in the face... I had no idea how to read it! Mr. Kantack wasn't very patient and so I made the decision to play the music by ear. It was easy for me and everything was going well until the day came that I didn't turn the song page at the right time and I was caught!  There was no flexibility or kindness on the part of Mr. Kantack, so I quietly put my instrument away and never went back to class.  Fortunately my love of the violin never left me.

This week in Paris, I learned that spring concerts were starting at the Sainte-Chapelle.  This intimate chapel is located inside the Palais de Justice and was built by King Louis IX.  It was finished on April 26, 1248 and since April 26th is my birthday, I decided this was my sign to attend a concert there! I chose the Vivaldi, Mozart, and Haydn concerts for violin, cello  and bass.  To say that this 1 hour music concert was wonderful, is an understatement. It was more a transportive experience-- The beauty of the gothic-style chapel, the expertise of the musicians (from the National Superior Conservatory of Music) and the charm of the notes written by their composers,  easily took me someplace far away from which I didn't want to return... There is something about the sound that comes off the strings that penetrates the heart more deeply than most instruments.  As the 18th century French writer Edmond de Goncourt once said: “A poet is a man who puts up a ladder to a star and climbs it while playing a violin.”

I watched the violin players mostly-- especially, the young woman in her pencil skirt and classic Louboutin black heels-- the red soles showing with each twist.  As she stood and played, I realized that the posture required to hold a violin is quite beautiful in and of itself.  Everything about this evening made me feel so alive!   I highly recommend the concerts at Sainte-Chapelle for your next visit to this City of light, poetry, music and romance! 

La Sainte-Chapelle: 8, Boulevard du Palais:

Have a glass of champagne at the Brasserie des Deux Palais (3, Boulevard du Palais) across the street before or after the performance

Concert website:
https://www.classictic.com/en/concerts_at_la_sainte_chapelle/10055/256480/

 

xx Carla

 

 

One of my favorite places in Paris is the Palais Royal. When you step into the gardens and look at all the apartments surrounding you, you can imagine the grand 16th,17th, and 18th century parties, the gambling disputes, and the ladies of the night strolling in the galeries. There is so much history inside these arcades-- it just feels full of secrets! Louis Philippe opened it to the public in 1780 as a shopping and entertainment complex that housed 145 boutiques, cafés, salons and bookshops-- it became the most prestigious Parisian gathering place. On occasion, classical music floats down from one of the apartment windows and into the gardens-- its easy then to imagine the glamorous scenes from the 18th century court gatherings. Today, the Palais Royal consists of private apartments, restaurants, theatres and shops. The perfectly manicured gardens run down the center of two long arcades; the Galerie de Montpensier and the Galerie de Valois. It is here that you find unique shopping and dining. There is no need to rush to arrive early as most shops don't open until about 11:00am. I usually stroll across the river from the Left Bank to the gardens ( the Palais Royal is located on the Right Bank in the 1st Arrondisement) and take in the sights from the bridge along the way. I pass through the arcades of the Louvre and then down the rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau. A wonderful short cut through the Galerie Vero Dodat is a must! You'll see the original boutique of Christian Louboutin and the gorgeous cosmetics of By Terry. When I finally enter the Palais Royal, I remember my own history there-- I can still see Camille playing with delight in the sandbox at the end of the gardens. Less happy were the tears that were shed when a little French boy threw sand in her face... Thankfully, the charming toy store , The Boutique de Palais Royal was close by to offer the perfect distraction! The many lunches shared with friends, sun-soaked moments in the gardens, and the fabulous people watching over the years makes this one of my all-time sentimental favorites in this great City! I hope you'll take the time to stroll the galleries, have lunch and sit in the sun on your next trip here. Below, are some of my favorite places to eat and shop while in the Palais Royal. Enjoy!

Viillalys Restaurant: 

Garden seating, I order the asiette Villalys and a glass of Morgon wine

30 Galerie de Montpensier

Bistro Valois: 

Just outside the Palais Royal--lovely terrasse, Whatever the plat du jour is, is what I order!

1 Place Valois

Serges Lutens Perfumes: 

Incredible sensory experience!

142 Galerie de Valois

Acne Studios: 

Swedish Fashion Design House

124 Galerie de Valois

Delage: 

One of the last handmade French shoe artisans--classic. Their gloves are their best secret!

15 Galerie de Valois

Didier Ludot and Gabrielle Geppert: 

The reputable dealers for vintage Chanel and Hermes

24 Galerie de Montpensier and 31 Galerie de Montpensier respectively

Galerie d'Art Joyce: 

Always provocative art and fashion

168 Galerie de Valois 

Bacqueville: 

Medals, coins and antique heraldry

7 Galerie de Montpensier

xx Carla

 

 

Last April, we realized a long time dream to buy a Paris apartment.  We closed escrow on my birthday and we floated on champagne bubbles for days and days after.  The process of purchasing real estate in France is not for the faint of heart  but I will spare you those stories for now.  There is a 16th century expression in French  Chercher Midi à quatorze heures which translates to  something like Looking for noon at two o'clock. It basically implies that you are making things more difficult than need be-- that you are attempting to accomplish the impossible.  I think that this expression speaks perfectly to the French real estate buying experience!  Let's just say we knew we were in for an adventure when, ironically,  the apartment that we loved was located on the rue du Cherche-Midi!  

So... off I go! I've packed my carry-on with few clothes and all of my favorite Camille K jewelry pieces!   I'll have 10 hours from San Francisco to Paris to enjoy  a good book -- The Swans of Fifth Avenue-- and to dream of all the things I want to do once there.  Watch your mailbox for my Letters from Paris-- I can't wait to share it all with you!  À bientôt! 

xx Carla 

 

 

My love affair with the City of Lights began early in my childhood when someone gave me a book called: France, Country of Delight: Paris and the Provinces. It came with color slides that I viewed on my Panorama illuminated viewer! It also came with a 33 record featuring Charles Boyer as tour guide. Between his French accent and a view of the City, I fell madly in love. 

I believe, that if we wish for something from a young age, and we continue to nourish it, we get closer to living it later on. My dream of Paris began with this book and was nourished by travelling to Paris in college and then marrying a Frenchman later on.  To live a dream is to live a life fulfilled!   After all this time, I can now call Paris my home...

As I gather my belongings together for this upcoming trip, it should come as no surprise that I start first with my jewelry.  You know that I love every piece of jewelry I make but sometimes I do play favorites!  I always take pieces from the Biltmore and Lucky Collections ( Click on your favorite piece for detailed information )-- Simply said, they just speak to me!  
Watch for the rest of jewelry I'm taking with me to be featured on next week's blog.  Then it's off to Paris where I'll be sending you Letters from Paris -- my insider view of this amazing City!

 

xx Carla 

 

 

OEUF MAYONNAISE
Happy spring! With Easter this weekend and Passover in April,  there are bound to be an abundance of fresh and hardboiled eggs gracing our kitchens.  For me, the egg is golden --it can be a valuable part of a recipe and it can be the recipe all on its own.
In the words of Oscar Wilde,
"An egg is always an adventure; the next one may be different."
 
In France, one of my favorite dishes is the very classic oeuf mayonnaise.  What makes it fabulous is the homemade mayonnaise dribbled over the top of the egg-- not mixed into the yolk.  This dish is considered somewhat old-fashioned by some, but there is a movement (so French!) in Paris to bring it back.  Claude Lebey, the doyen of restaurant critics, has founded ASOM (Association for the preservation of the Oeuf Mayonnaise).  The French take their food quite seriously! Here are Monsieur Lebey's suggestions on making the perfect hardboiled egg to be enjoyed underneath a cover of mayonnaise:
1) Start cooking the egg in fast boilingsalted water
2) The perfect cooking time is 9 minutes
3) Stop cooking 30 seconds before the finish time so the yolk is still a bit soft.
4) Always enjoy a glass of champagne with this dish--it goes perfectly.

On your next trip to Paris, here are Lebey's ASOM Prize winning restaurants for Oeuf Mayonnaise:  Chez Flottes, Brasserie L'Evasion, L'Auberge D'Chez Eux.
In the meantime, pour yourself a glass of champagne and have fun making the perfect hardboiled egg and homemade mayonnaise! Cheers! 

CARLA'S MAYONNAISE

Ingredients: 


2 egg yolks and 1 whole egg (organic)
1 tsp dijon mustard
2 Tablespoons lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 cups high quality olive oil

Preparation: 

Put everything but the oil in a food processor for 10 seconds until creamy.  With the processor running, add your oil SLOWLY—droplets at a time!  It should be very thick. Once you have added 1 1/2 cups of the oil, stop the machine and check for thickness and taste. If it is too thick, add drops of lemon juice or continue to slowly add oil.  When I'm feeling extra ambitious, I make this using a bowl and a whisk (and some elbow grease!).

Keep refrigerated and use within 1 week. May be flavored by adding chopped herbs, roasted garlic,spices, or anything you can dream up.

SECRET: Make sure all ingredients are at room temperature to start and remember that patience is a virtue! 

 

xx Carla 

 

 

Cheesecake hails from New York in modern times, but it turns out it has a history dating back to the 1st Century A.D and the politician Marcus Cato who served it as an offering to the gods at his temple. Later, it was served to the athletes during the first Olympic games in Greece, and then it was introduced in Western Europe by the Roman conquering armies.  

Knowing this bit of history will explain why my absolute favorite cheesecake can be found in Paris in a restaurant located in a small, historic passageway known as The Village Royal (Cité Berryer). For many years before the restaurant opened, I came to this quiet spot to drink tea and enjoy a bit of respite from the bustle of the city. It was like finding a small village in a big city and the fact that it was home to the Royal Guard of Louis XIII-- the Musketeers, definitely added to its charm. Now it has become my cheesecake pilgrimage when in Paris! Once seated at my table, they ask me if I would like to have a cheesecake set aside for my dessert... Perhaps I'm a bit too obvious?

I have asked for the recipe countless times --but alas, they only dribble clues about the ingredients-- the French, they are good at discretion! It seems speculoos cookies are what make the crust so good and that they leave the cake a bit undercooked (the center is runny when you bite into it), the key to its ultimate success.  I hope you travel to the Village Royal-- besides the cheesecake, Chanel and Dior have moved into the Village making it the perfect afternoon outing!  
http://villageroyal.com/?lang=en#!/history
In the spirit of sharing, I give you my recipe and quote the motto of the Three Musketeers:

"All for one and one for all"!
 

CARLA'S CHEESECAKE INSPIRED BY Le Village

Crust:


2- 7 ounce boxes of Speculoos cookies (Trader Joe's)
1 stick (8 Tablespoons) butter, melted
1/2 cup  brown sugar

Cheesecake:

3 large 8 oz. boxes organic  cream cheese, room temperature
1 cup organic sour cream 
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
5 large organic eggs, room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon lemon juice

Heat oven to 350. Coat bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with butter.

In a food processor, finely crumble the cookies . Process for 1 minute and transfer to a bowl.  Drizzle butter over the mixture, add brown sugar, and use a fork to mix until well moistened. Put crumbs into the pan, spread and press them into an even, lightly packed layer. Bake 10 minutes and remove from oven to cool.

Now preheat the oven to 500 degrees

Beat cream cheese and 1 cup sour cream until fluffy about 3 minutes.  With mixer going, add sugar in a steady stream until well mixed. Whisk together eggs, vanilla and lemon juice and add to cream cheese mixture. Beat until very smooth. Pour it over the crust and smooth the top. Bake for 10 minutes at 500 degrees,  then lower the temperature to 200 degrees and bake for another 1 hour and 15 min.

Remove from oven and cool.  While cooling, mix 2 cups sour cream with 1/4 cup sugar (add more sugar if you like it sweet).  When the cake is cool, spread the sour cream mixture over the top (like icing) and place in fridge.  Cover and let it sit for at least 4 hours in fridge. When ready to serve, slide a knife around the outer edge of cake in the pan and then remove the side of the springform pan.  Enjoy!

xx Carla 

 

In 1977, I lived in Madrid, Spain and studied at the Instituto de Cultura Hispanica for my college year abroad.  I wanted to be in a language immersion program and I wanted to live with a Spanish family. As an enthusiastic  20 year old, I wanted to speak, eat and dance my way through this special moment in my life.  I lived on the Calle Flor Baja, across the street from Bar Raul.  My roommate and I played Carole King, Carly Simon, and James Taylor music loud while we hung out our bedroom window flirting tirelessly with Raul! What a time it was...  My Señora's name was Carmen Fernández Lobo-- she had long black hair that she mostly secured in a bun, wore high-luster pearl earrings (my fascination with pearls started here!) and had many friends in high government places.  We developed a friendship over time and she taught me a lot about Spanish men, dry sherry, and making the famous tortilla Española!  I have made many versions of her tortilla over the years and  to add to the nostalgia of it all, I listen to "You're So Vain" dedicated to Raul or Paco de Lucía dedicated to Carmen.  

 

TORTILLA ESPAÑOLA INSPIRED BY CARMEN

INGREDIENTS

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 1/4 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and sliced 1/8 inch thick
1 onion, halved and thinly sliced thinly
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper 
8 large organic eggs

INSTRUCTIONS

        Preheat the broiler. Heat 1/4 cup of the olive oil in a large cast-iron skillet. Add the potato and onion slices, season with salt and pepper and cook over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until the potatoes and onion are tender but not browned, about 15 minutes. Add a cover for faster cooking. When cooked, remove from heat.

        In a large bowl, lightly beat the eggs and season with salt and pepper.  

        Return the skillet to the heat. Add the egg mixture, spreading it out in an even layer to cover the potatoes. Cover and cook over low heat until the tortilla is set on the bottom and the edges, about 10 minutes.  Periodically, life the sides of the tortilla and let the runny egg fold under to cook.Transfer the skillet to the oven and broil 8 inches from the heat just until the top is set, about 1 minute longer. Set a large plate over the skillet and carefully invert the tortilla onto the plate. Let stand for 5 minutes. Cut into wedges and serve warm or at room temperature (can stand at room temp. for 3 hours).
Serve on top of sauteed spinach, kale and poblano peppers or serve just as it is and be sure to enjoy a glass of dry sherry!

xx Carla